PSYCHOLOGY OF SURFING
Surfing is not an easy sport, for success in it it is important not only and not so much physical health as psychological health. As practice shows, you can catch waves and have fun without legs and hands, but only with a clear mind and a positive attitude.
There are psychological traps waiting for each surfer in the ocean, you’ll get caught and risk stopping in progress, or even lose interest in surfing altogether. She wrote in detail and in detail about these traps, and how not to get into them.
Fear can become an engine of progress, and can irrevocably slow down the development of surfing. It all depends on the character: someone likes to overcome themselves, such people are more likely to succeed in surfing, take huge waves and pass pipes, calmly falling into heavy mixes. Fear, on the contrary, slows down others, not allowing them to leave the comfort zone, and this is precisely the key to development. According to statistics, girls are more often afraid, but still gender is not a determining factor here. To fight fear, you need to look in his face, understand what exactly you are afraid of. Drown? In this case, you should be like freediving courses. In the end, no one forces you to climb giant waves such as Nazare or Tiahupu, and when you fall from a wave, say, two growths, it will spin under water, but in fact not for so long, a maximum of half a minute, which, in the framework of human ability to delay breathing is nonsense.
Expand the boundaries of comfort should be gradual. So, in order to start riding on a new spot, it is better to “try” it in the forecast when the waves are small, then in a slightly larger one to understand the wave and get comfortable on it, after which it will not be scary to climb onto it, but even larger in size. An important role here is played by the presence of someone you know next to you on the lineup, someone who is rolled to the spot or just more experienced. He may at the right moment shout “come on” when you are in doubt, but it can be seen from the outside that the position is ideal. Having once taken such a wave, which you could not dare to row before (and it doesn’t matter whether you drove it or fell and surfaced safely), the indoor unit will be removed, and it will be easier further.
THERE IS THIS – SCARY, AND YOU HAVE THERE FORGIN SURE
Another danger that awaits the surfer on the lineup is uncontrolled aggression. Different circumstances can cause it: crooked waves that can’t be taken in any way, or a large number of people who are unable to leave the wave. It is much more difficult to deal with internal rabies, because it is caused by external circumstances, which you most likely cannot influence in any way. But as they say, if you can’t change the situation, change your attitude towards it. When you catch yourself thinking that you are ready to blow the whole world to hell, swim to the canal or to the outside side, where the wave doesn’t catch you by surprise, sit on the board and take a deep breath. Try to understand what’s so annoying at the moment. Waves that are not taken? Well, in a state of fuss and nerves, you are unlikely to be able to concentrate on the ocean and take a wave. Therefore, we must calm down and try to look at the situation from a different angle. Do not you just ride, and the rest calmly pick up and leave the waves? So you are choosing the wrong position. Watch others, where they take the waves from, how they are raked. Having spent a little time on this, you will just have time to calm down, swim to the right place and finally take your wave. Option number two – surfers around are also having difficulty. This suggests that the quality of the waves really leaves much to be desired. In this case, getting angry is even more pointless, you need to either get out of the water, or, if you really want to, turn today’s gurney into a game for yourself, when you need to choose the waves with special care. Do not set goals to drive a certain number of waves, do not row for everything, sit and wait, watch the ocean. Then each wave nevertheless chosen correctly will bring a lot of joy!
It also happens that people are furious. If there is a crowd on the lineup that prevents you from riding, for example, you are scared to swim out at the peak, and as a result, those who are not pissing, or, in another situation, too many surfers are inside, make out all the waves, it’s scary to bring them down, and indeed literally nowhere to go, or they simply constantly drop you … Unfortunately, it will not work to drive people out of the water or force them to let themselves through. There is only one way out – to change the spot. Or the one where you will feel competitive, or the one where there are significantly fewer people. If on some spot the situation with “losing one’s temper” is repeated constantly, just stop riding on it, so I did with the Balinese Batu Bolong and I do not regret it. In any case, you don’t have to infuriate yourself, it’s better to change your place than to hate everyone in the world of people and surf in addition.