This is a guest article by a good friend of mine who has been involved in various extreme sports for many years and now lives in Bali, where, among other things, he enjoys surfing. The main thing I want to say about him is that he is a truly and deeply thinking person. Looking at surfing from the inside, I completely agree with his theses, as well as with the conclusion. So his word is:
To be able to see the dark sides of even the most positive phenomenon means to be able not to fall into the trap of illusions.
We all know that the medal has at least two sides (if you do not take into account the rib), and the stick has Continue reading
Attention, in this article there are such words as “menstruation” and “vagina”, if you are a man and do not want anatomical details – do not read, just throw a link to your surfing friends.
If you are lucky to be born with a set of chromosomes XX, the imprint of the hormonal background is superimposed on most of your life. PMS, pain, fatigue, tearfulness – repeating regularly, these things become familiar and mundane. The female cycle naturally also influences surfing. Kitchen conversations confirm that among my acquaintances there was not a single girl who would say that she did not notice any difference during the whole month. The most common complaint is a lack of strength right in front of menstruation and in the early days. Next on the list is poor coordination on the same dates. Continue reading
Surfing is not an easy sport, for success in it it is important not only and not so much physical health as psychological health. As practice shows, you can catch waves and have fun without legs and hands, but only with a clear mind and a positive attitude.
There are psychological traps waiting for each surfer in the ocean, you’ll get caught and risk stopping in progress, or even lose interest in surfing altogether. She wrote in detail and in detail about these traps, and how not to get into them.
Fear can become an engine of progress, and can irrevocably slow down the development of surfing. It all Continue reading